Ah, fashion month. Alongside all the blockbuster shows by the Burberrys and the Balmains of this world, there's always a whole host of exciting new names that have everyone muttering 'next big thing' before the rain's even dried from our Gucci goat-fur mules.

When a brand's being snapped on street style stars before anyone who doesn't stare at clothes for a living has even heard of them, that's when you know: Buzzy Brand (technical term, technical term) Alert.

So read on for our round-up of the new designers and coolest labels to watch out for, right now...

VETEMENTS

Who: A 'design collective' headed up by Demna Gvasalia, a former designer for Maison Martin Margiela. Ultimate proof of his white-hotness - the official announcement during Paris Fashion Week that he's been appointed the new creative director of Balenciaga following Alexander Wang's exit.

Why: Think grunge meets deconstruction meets vintage - oversized jackets, recycled firefighers' jackets...a floral-patchwork dress with sweatshirt inserts from last season was spotted on street stylers galore during the shows

Where: Paris Fashion Week - in a kitschy Chinese restaurant on the outskirts of town, no less. High-gloss commercial fashion, this ain't. And that's why they're so hot.

JACQUEMUS

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Who: Simon Porte Jacquemus

Why: His masterful way of slicing together fabrics and elements of different pieces to produce crisp, asymmetric looks - for example half a beautifully-tailored navy jacket, layered over a white t-shirt and a red mini dress

Where: Paris Fashion Week

ROSIE ASSOULIN

Who: Connected New Yorker Rosie Assoulin, a former Oscar de la Renta trainee

Why: Exaggerated, dramatic party wear with edge. See her take on ruffles for SS16 - she's even put them down the side of flares

Where: New York Fashion Week

TOGA

Who: Japanese designer Yasuko Furuta

Why: OK, we're massively cheating by putting this one in a 'new brand' line up - the label was founded in Tokyo in 1997 and is now one of Japan's coolest labels. But our excuse? She's only been showing in London for a year. And we're obsessed. Think crazy fabric mash-ups and amazing studded accessories.

Where: London Fashion Week

BARBARA CASASOLA

Who: Brazilian-born, London-based perfectionist Barbara Casasola

Why: Super minimal and super clean, Casasola's designs feature immaculate pleating and a total lack of embellishment. Her bias-cut dresses and amazing trouser suits for SS16 called to mind early Calvin Klein

Where: London Fashion Week

HILL & FRIENDS

Who: Ex Mulberry designer Emma Hill - aka the lady who brought us It bags galore. See the Alexa for starters

Why: The world of accessories has had a huge 'It'-bag-shaped hole in it since Hill's departure from Mulberry. Now she's bringing her fun, wit and serious knack for covet-factor to her own label. Her fuchsia, leopard and bright green bags for SS16 are aimed at the almost-affordable market - ie they start at £495, not £1450.

Where: London Fashion Week - presented at a neon-pink-fest breakfast at Claridges. With bags carried by Hill & Friends-uniformed bellboys. Of course!

MOLLY GODDARD

Who: London-born Molly Goddard, a St Martin's knitwear graduate

Why: Nostalgic dresses with a strong hand-crafted element - think oversized tiered tulle prom dresses and smocking galore

Where: London Fashion Week

CLAIRE BARROW

Who: Fashion East alumni Claire Barrow

Why: Punky cool - Barrow's pieces are festooned with scribbled and painted-on handwriting and shown on a colourful line-up of street-casting-style models

Where: London Fashion Week

MARCO DE VINCENZO

Who: Sicilian Marco de Vincenzo, the man responsible for sell-out Fendi bags aplenty thanks to his other day job as head of bag design for the Italian house

Why: His clothing brand under his own name has quickly rocketed him to fash-consciousness for his luxe, OTT approach - incredible textiles (feathers, upholstery fabrics...you name it) and rainbows of colour

Where: Milan Fashion Week

DELPOZO

Who: Catalonian creative director Josep Font

Why: The 40-year-old Spanish house started life as del Pozo, a Madrid boutique. It became well known for fragrances but was pretty much 'asleep' until its new owners appointed Font. He's breathed new life into it with his spectacular 'pret-a-couture' collections (ie ready-to-wear but made using high-end couture techniques) and a spot on the New York Fashion Week show schedule. His dramatic, sculptural take on cocktail dressing has 'cool red-carpet' written all over it

Where: New York Fashion Week

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