A QVC mega-success, Wen by Chaz Dean pioneered the no-poo movement in 2008 with the introduction of the first cleansing conditioner, a product that promises to clean and condition without the use of harsh sulfates. Since then, the brand has reportedly shipped over 10 million Wen products and amassed a loyal following that swears by the ultraconditioning and silkifying formula. But recently, a group of 200 women have filed a class action suit against the brand, claiming they have suffered from severe and possibly permanent hair damage.

The women's claims match those in many online reviews: They report visible bald spots, hair breakage, and scalp irritation. We asked a few dermatologists whether there's anything to these complaints. “Not cleansing the scalp can be detrimental to hair,” says Carlos Wesley, a cosmetic surgeon and hair-loss specialist in New York City. “Although many people believe the myth that shampooing your hair can lead to fallout, the real problem with not cleansing the scalp periodically is that our scalp oil (sebum) contains a trace of dihydrotestosterone, which is the androgen implicated in causing hair to cycle and thin out." He explains that cleansing conditioners are great for keeping hair soft and manageable, but a shampoo is necessary to remove product buildup every so often.

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On the other hand, Boston-based dermatologist Parpi Sarkar is skeptical. She notes that most of the hair-loss claims seem to be of focused, discrete areas, which isn't what she would anticipate if the baldness were caused by a product. “If the hair loss were due to the product buildup of Wen, I would expect a more diffuse hair loss that would affect the whole scalp. Also, I would expect to see plugged hair follicles, which would likely get inflamed and cause folliculitis,” she adds.

So is there something in Wen formulations that’s wildly different from other hair cleansers on the market? “The ingredient list shares a lot of things that are common in other shampoos and conditioners," says Sarkar. She notes, however, that some ingredients are known allergens, including sweet-almond oil, fragrance, and flower extracts. "I would expect if someone was experiencing hair loss due to an allergy to Wen, they'd have an itchy, pink scalp. In addition, they might have itchy patches around their eyes or on their face, since the product would run down their face when they're using it. The area around the eyes is especially sensitive."

Wen is standing by its line. “We take great pride in the quality of our products and believe every product meets our high standards,” says the brand. “The [product] benefits are reflected in consistently high rankings from independent consumer product sites,” they add. The brand notes there is no scientific evidence to support the claims that their products caused anyone to lose their hair. “There are many reasons why individuals may lose their hair, all unrelated to Wen hair products. We intend to vigorously contest the allegations made against our products. And, we encourage any customer with any questions to contact us.”

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