According to the Temperley London show notes laid out on attendees’ seats, the theme of Alice Temperley’s latest collection was Havana. This was one of those occasions where, after the final défilé, you glanced again at those notes, considered what you’d just seen on the runway, and thought, Nah. It’s not that Temperley didn’t reference Havana, or her private fantasy of Havana, in these clothes; it’s just that the Cuban motifs ran a distant second in importance to the show’s real theme, which was embroidery.

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The heart of this collection was Temperley’s heavily embroidered sundresses, and likewise embellished sundress-esque ensembles. Backed in crisp white or navy cotton, these pieces came in a variety of relaxed silhouettes and played host to a virtual fireworks display of floral and abstract embroidered patterns. They’ll be catnip on the sales floor—indeed, women who don’t usually gravitate to Temperley may find themselves tempted by the sundress looks. The designer deployed similar styles of embroidery on more formal, tulle-backed dresses and separates, as well.

The look of the decorative embroidery was repeated on non-embroidered garments, too. Notably, Temperley’s signature intarsia knits echoed the effect, as did some of the pieces in printed silk. The collection as a whole had a winning sense of ease—even the tailored looks shared in its languorous, tropical vacation tone, which was amplified by the romance of Temperley’s occasional ruffles and flounces. The one quibble, really, was with the full-on evening looks: The combination of mirror sequins and tassel embroidery came off a touch de trop. Temperley did better with her more casual takes on the category, in particular the silk kimono gown in a tropical bird print. Here, at least, the show notes rang true: The dress was embroidery-free, and the Havana theme came through.

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